Create a Scalloped Skirt Hem

Create a Scalloped Skirt Hem

Kathy Barnard May/June 2011 scalloped hem scallops Sew Beautiful 2011 Collection

Interlocking Scallops by Kathy Barnard

Scallops can be used in many ways to add interesting lines to garments. One of our favorite uses for this unique design element is the scalloped hem. There are a number of commercial dress patterns around that feature scalloped hemlines, but have no fear if you don't have one handy! This tutorial by Kathy Barnard from our May/June 2011 edition will show you how to easily add a scalloped hem to any basic skirt pattern.

1. Cut a skirt to desired finished hem with no hem allowance.

2. On wrong side, draw a line 2 inches from bottom edge across skirt.

Figure 1

3. Make a template using a large 7-inch circle. Mark a line 3/4 inch from circle center and draw a line across it to establish scallop height at 3/4 inch (fig. 1). Cut off top of circle to use for a wave template (should be approximately 5-3/4 inches long).

Figure 2

4. On wrong side of skirt, starting at side seam line (1/2 inch from edge), draw a half scallop above the line, then flip the template and draw a whole scallop bellow the line. Continue drawing nine whole scallops across front, alternating them above and below the 2-inch line. End with a half scallop facing up. Leave a 1/2-inch seam allowance and trim off side of skirt to fit if necessary to keep scallops even and math easy (fig. 2). Repeat for back skirt. Do not cut out scallops.

5. Tear two hem facing strips from skirt fabric or from a solid lining fabric 4-1/4 inches by width of fabric. Cut to exact measurement of skirt front and back.

6. Sew side seams of skirt together and sides seams of facing together.

7. If applying trim, draw a line 1 inch above wavy line on right side of skirt and glue baste trim in place. Stitch trim in place before adding facing (a double needle is great for applying spaghetti bias, or use clear thread and a buttonhole stitch on your machine and stitch both sides).

8. Place facing to bottom of skirt with right sides together and pin all around in a tube.

Figure 3

9. Stitch following the traced wavy line on the wrong side of the skirt (fig. 3).

10. Trim 1/4 inch from stitching and clip inner curves and notch outer curves. Turn facing to inside and press wavy seam edge.

11. For contrast peek-a-boo band, tear contrast fabric 10-1/2 inches by width of fabric. Cut to match bottom width of skirt and sew side seams together to form a tube. Fold tube in half with wrong sides together, matching raw edges and press fold.

12. Separate hem facing from skirt and pin raw edges of contrast band to raw edge of facing with right sides together. Stitch with a serger, or straight stitch and overcast edge with a zigzag.

13. Pin facing and contrast band seam to inside of skirt and blind stitch or pick stitch catching just a thread of the skirt fabric to hold facing and band in place.

For more sewing ideas, don't miss our new 2011 Sew Beautiful Collection CD. This CD includes all six issues of Sew Beautiful magazine from 2011, complete with printable patterns, project templates, sewing tips, technique tutorials and endless inspiration!

Sew On, Sew Well, Sew Beautiful,
Cyndi and Amelia

Quick and Colorful Bias Strip Embellishments

Quick and Colorful Bias Strip Embellishments

2006 Collection CD bias strip embellishments bias strips Carolyn Sheron easy embellishments Kathy Barnard May/June 2006

Black and White Swirls (left) and Green and Turquoise Waves

Bias strips are typically used for trims or binding, but they can also be used to make colorful and oh-so-easy embellishments. Raw bias strips were sewn directly to the fabric before constructing the two children's outfits shown here. The garments, which first appeared in our May/June 2006 issue, were designed by our former editor Kathy Barnard and constructed by Carolyn Sheron. The basic embellishment technique used here could be applied to a variety of different projects, however, so be creative!

Additionally, any machine embroidery motif can be embroidered directly over the bias strip - a trail of ladybugs could be stitched on the black and white swirl design, or embroidered flowers could be finished off with wavy bias strip stems and leaves. Boys would love an airplane with a trail of loops across a T-shirt or a pair of shorts.

The raw edges of the bias strip do not fray and look great left flat, or brushed for more fluff as shown. Only one layer of fabric is used in this technique, unlike traditional chenille shaping, which requires several layers. No template is necessary; simply draw waves and swirls on your paper pattern and transfer them to the fabric with a washout marker. Apply the bias strips directly on top of the right side of the fabric after the pattern pieces are cut out. Then, construct the garment as directed in the pattern. If using machine embroidery, you may need to leave enough fabric for hooping before you actually cut out the pattern. Details for each outfit are included below:

Figure 1

Black and White Swirls

Pattern, made from black and white cotton corded piqué, is the "Sleeveless Flared Top" and the "Short Skirt" from the book Contemporary Heirlooms for the Older Girl by Martha Pullen. Carolyn shortened the size 10 top by 2 inches to meet the waistband of the skirt. The front skirt pattern was adapted for a flap front. To make a flap front, simply cut out two front skirt pieces; draw a straight line from top to bottom on one piece approximately 1-1/2 inches from the left top edge then cut on the line (fig. 1). Embellish the front with bias strip swirls. Hem the cut edge with a double fold 1/2-inch hem, and place on top of whole front skirt. Treat as one layer to complete construction.

Figure 2

Green and Turquoise Waves

Pattern, in lime green and turquoise cotton corded piqué, is a modification of "Abbey" from Children's Corner. One inch was removed from the outer shoulder edge on the size 4 and tapered into the arm curves to bring the shoulder edge closer to the neck. The top was shortened 4 inches (fig. 2). The pants were made according to the pattern (note: pants run long in the crotch; we removed 2-1/2 inches from the top of each pant piece to make waistband meet child's waist). Carolyn made a fabric flower pin for the top (template and instructions are included on the pullout centerfold of the magazine).

For more great projects, check out our newly released Sew Beautiful 2006 Collection CD. 

Sew On, Sew Well, Sew Beautiful,

Cyndi and Amelia