Basic Tips for Embroidering Baby Knits

Basic Tips for Embroidering Baby Knits

Amelia Johanson baby knits embroidering on baby knits February/March 2014 machine embroidery tips

Peter Rabbit designs are pictured here on a onesie, bib and blanket.

Stitching out storybook classics in watercolor pastel threads is an adorable way to whip up a one-of-a-kind baby ensemble. I (Amelia) have a special place in my heart for the Beatrix Potter characters. Whenever I see the classic artwork or the charming tales, I think of my first son Noah. Has it really been 22 years since I papered one of his nursery walls with Jeremy Fisher scenes and embroidered the imaginative world of Beatrix Potter characters on pillowcases, blankies, crib sheets, a dust ruffle and more?

Recently, I downloaded a small, affordable collection of Beatrix Potter bunnies and stitched them on baby blanks to create the onesies, bibs and blanket pictured here. Below are a few general tips I shared in our February/March 2014 edition that you can use when embroidering your own favorite storybook characters on baby knits:

An online search for Beatrix Potter designs yields options for any embroidery machine model.

• Dampen and dry each piece to avoid shrinkage that can distort the fabric around the embroidered area after stitching.

• For bibs and other smaller blanks, consider reducing the embroidery size.

• If you'd like to test thread colors and embroidery placement first, stitch out your chosen design on hooped muslin, cut out and move around on your blank until you're happy with the positioning. NOTE: Baby knits don't take well to extremely dense designs. If you're questioning the density, stitch out your test piece on a similar weight of knit yardage. NOTE:There is no rule that you have to use the thread colors that are provided with the embroideries. Compare your threads with actual Beatrix Potter art, and substitute accordingly, if you'd like a more authentic look.

• Once you've determine your placement, mark the vertical and horizontal center (plus sign) with an air-soluble or wash-away marking pen.

• Do not hoop the knit. Instead hoop a sticky wash-away stabilizer and adhere the knit blank to the stabilizer.

• Top your embroidery with Sulky Heat-Away Stabilizer. Spray lightly with KK2000 to adhere the stabilizer to your knit surface.

• Use your "fix" option to baste a frame first; this will ensure you've positioned your embroidery properly and secures your Heat-Away layer. The center of the embroidery should correspond to the marked center on your knit piece. Use your positioning arrows to reposition the embroidery if necessary.

• Once the embroidery is complete, remove your piece from the hoop, carefully trim away any excess stabilizer. Iron around the edges of the embroidery design to remove the Heat-Away stabilizer. Soak to remove Sticky stabilizer. Launder, let dry and press.

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Sew On, Sew Well, Sew Beautiful,
Cyndi and Amelia

Selecting the Right Stabilizer for Machine Embroidery

Selecting the Right Stabilizer for Machine Embroidery

Machine Embroidery 101 machine embroidery tips Pam Mahshie stabilizer recommendations stabilizers

We love adding embellishments like embroidery designs, appliqués and trims to our projects. These little accents are the "artist's touch" on our handiwork - that extra something that can turn a project into a masterpiece. This week, we'd like to talk about machine embroidery, one of the most common embellishment methods. We're often asked for tips related to machine embroidery, particularly regarding stabilizers.

Stabilizers are used for stabilizing the design during machine embroidery. This is necessary since the addition of a lot of thread on top of fabric can "shrink" or "pull" the fabric thus contorting your embroidery design.

Machine embroidery from Mary's Graduation Dress Designs
adds a beautiful finish to this dress.

How many layers of stabilizer do I need?  The number of stabilizer layers needed is usually determined by the density of the design and the type of fabric you are embroidering on. You must consider both of these when considering how many layers of stabilizer to use. Generally, the more dense the design, the more layers you should use, and the lighter the fabric, the more layers you should use.

What type of stabilizer should I use?  The type of stabilizer to use is usually determined by the type of fabric you are embroidering on. Below is a chart to use as a guide:

• Cut-away:  Used for knits and other types of "stretchy" fabrics. Usually comes in different weights (heavy, regular and light) to correspond with the weight of your fabric. When your embroidery design is finished, the stabilizer is then cut away from the embroidery design.

• Tear-away:  Used for stable, woven fabrics such as cottons and denim. This also comes in different weights to correspond with the weight of your fabric. When your embroidery design is finished, gently tear away the stabilizer from your design. This type of stabilizer is also available as an "iron on" and "sticky back".

• Water-Soluble:  Generally, this type of stabilizer is used as a backing for only stable, woven fabrics. It can also be used as a "topping" on any type of fabric that has a nap or loop to it, such as corduroy and terry cloth. It is also great for making "free standing" embroidery such as lace. No matter what type of fabric or application you are using this type of stabilizer for, when your embroidery design is finished, simply wash away the stabilizer with water (your fabric must be able to tolerate water).

This ready-to-embroider linen gift bag features machine
embroidery from My Lil' Friends. The casing pull was
made using spaghetti bias.

Will you share some specific stabilizer recommendations?  Below, we've provided a list of fabric types matched with recommended stabilizers.

• Woven Cotton, Batiste, Denim, Linen, Broadcloth - Stitch N Wash

• Silk, Silk Dupioni, Satin, Taffeta - Dream Weave

• Towel, Terry Cloth - Base: Wet N Stick or Perfect Stick, Topping: Water Soluble Topping or Heat N Gone

• Velvet, Velour, Suede - Perfect Stick, Heat N Gone Topping

• Polar Fleece, Meinke - Any "stick to" stabilizer

• Knit, Piqué - No-Show Nylon Mesh Fusible

• Sweater Knit - No-Show Nylon Mesh Fusible, Heat N Gone, Water-Soluble Topping

• Cotton Organdy, English Netting, Sheer Fabric that can be ironed - Wet N Gone Fusible

• Nylon Organdy/Organza, Netting, Sheer that cannot be ironed - Wet N Gone Tacky

• Hard to Hoop - Perfect Stick, Wet N Stick, Wet N Gone Tacky

For more machine embroidery tips, check out our new DVD, Machine Embroidery 101 (also available as an SD or HD download). Pam Mahshie, Education Director for Baby Lock, makes machine embroidery come alive for beginners who know little or nothing about it as she covers hoops, notions, articles to embroider, formats, downloads, marking for perfect placement, design opening basics, stabilizers for different fabrics and more.

Sew On, Sew Well, Sew Beautiful,
Cyndi and Amelia